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Guided Walking Holidays in Mayo, Ireland

 

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Ringfort in Mayo – Lios na Gaoithe

Hidden in the middle of one of Mayo’s countless conifer plantations lies one of the true jewels of the county. Lios na Gaoithe (The Fort of the Wind) is a large ringfort constructed sometime from the late Iron Age to the early medieval period. Scholars now tend to lean towards the latter being more likely as the period of ringforts in Ireland (500 to 1,000 AD).

Standing at a maximum of almost 4m from bottom of ditch to top of enclosure bank (see picture, below) and forming a circle of roughly 26m diameter, this structure has a circumference of around 82m. It would originally have had wooden stakes placed vertically around its perimeter, probably for keeping animals within and predators without. Note that present-day opinion is that ringforts were unlikely to have been in fact ’forts’, in the sense that they probably did not serve any real ‘defensive’ purpose. They were not constructed particularly high above the surrounding ground level and a ring of stakes might not have kept any would-be attackers at bay for very long. They were more likely to be status symbols of local chiefs or powerful clans, perhaps representing their control over surrounding lands.

Lios na Gaoithe was excavated in the 1950s and among the findings discovered was a cist, a burial construction made of stone slabs arranged in a box-like shape. Coloured glass beads were within, along with the bones of the deceased. How blue glass beads came to be in a West of Ireland ringfort is a matter of conjecture – some have suggested they may have come from as far away as north Africa, maybe via numerous trading posts along the way.

The ringfort is the most common remaining ancient type of ‘homestead’ in Ireland – there are estimated to be around 40,000 of them dotted all over the country. They consisted of a raised mound within a sunken ditch and an elevated outer bank. Indeed, sometimes there are more than one ditch and associated bank, the latter built of the material removed in order to dig out the former.

An entire earthen ringfort is called a ‘ráth’ and the dwelling enclosure within the ‘lios’, although in the case of Lios na Gaoithe, the former term has come to refer to the whole. Were it made of stone, the structure would be known as a ‘caiseal’ or ‘dún’, such as the famous Dún Aenghus of Inis Mór in the Aran Islands.

Interestingly, ringforts are often built in prominent positions and / or on good quality ground. Today, however, neither of these attributes applies to Lios na Gaoithe, located as it is in classic Mayo boggy terrain. Having said that, it does command a strong (though not elevated) position in a valley running from northeast to southwest through hilly terrain and is close by a small river.

Some pictures below are given twice – once ‘as is’ and once with superimposed red lines showing the structure of the ringfort and ditch.

 

My map below shows the location of the fort in relation to the landscape around it. Areas coloured brown are at 200m altitude or above, while the green areas are at 50m elevation and lower.  You can see two entrances into this terrain from the north, marked A and B. Entrance A comes from what is today a vast open, low-lying bog. This is very wet, inhospitable country and, even 1,000 years ago, unlikely to have been crossed by men on horseback or foot. Entrance B carries a track today and keeps relatively high above the surrounding bog. Assuming there was already some traffic through this area over a millennium ago, we can see how Lios na Gaoithe would have commanded the pass to the rivers, lake and sea (out of picture) beyond, to the south.

 

Lios na Gaoithe ringfort, Mayo

The ringfort in its landscape

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Spring’s Lovely Wildflowers

Perhaps the most lovely thing about being out walking at this particular time of year is the renewed colour all around as the spring wildflowers come out and begin to dominate our forests, hedges and verges.

The white of Wild Garlic carpets the forest floor, which it shares with the beautiful drooping Bluebell. Get down on your hands and knees and breathe in the powerful aroma of the Wild Garlic – one of the great signs of Ireland’s springtime.

The bright cream of Primrose appears in tight bunches along the hedgerow, while the especially excellent Marsh Marigold stands bright yellow along the damp lakeshores, often with its feet in the water.

The small white flowers of Wild Strawberry is a hedge neighbour with the discreet blue-purple Dog-Violet. We hope we’ll see the fruit of the Wild Strawberry later in the summer, while the Voilet will soon fade away.

Some green is supplied by the carpet-forming Opposite-Leaved Golden Saxifrage on stream banks, along with Lords and Ladies in the hedges and the fabulous tall and erect shoots of Yellow Iris on damp ground, neither of which is yet in bloom.

So get out and enjoy the outdoors, ever more interesting with the arrival of spring wildflowers. For all you need to know about Ireland’s wildflowers, visit Zoe Devlin’s superb website, at www.wildflowersofireland.net and don’t leave home without the Collins “Complete Irish Wildlife” book, with its introduction by Derek Mooney. The latter also contains Ireland’s mammals, trees, birds, insects, etc.

 

 

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Weekend Walk at Carrowtigue (An Ceathrú Thaidhg)

Walking Ireland

Carrowtigue cliff top walk

I’ve added the loop walk at Carrowtigue to the walking schedule for this coming Saturday. Located in the northwest tip of Mayo, Carrowtigue offers a lovely 3 to 4 hour loop walk on cliff-tops along towards Benwee Head.

This weekend walk starts at 11.00 from the shop and community centre in Carrowtigue village (An Ceathrú Thaidhg) and will end around 15.00. Please give me a call if you would like to come along and bring a packed lunch plus water. Don’t forget the binoculars and camera !

 

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Walking The Bangor Trail with Lenny

Walking Holidays in Ireland

The remote Bangor Trail, Mayo

A few weeks back I had the pleasure of accompanying freelance journalist Lenny on The Bangor Trail. We had beautiful weather for our walking trip, especially considering it was the middle of winter.

Reproduced below is Lenny’s lovely article from the Irish Times. I’ve had to remove both the map and accompanying photograph, as the paper unfortunately printed the wrong one on both counts.

Let me know if you’d like to undertake this hike – at nine hours walking from beginning to end, it’s easily Ireland’s longest linear off-road hiking trail. Traversing vast blanket bog landscape and travelling beneath the Nephin Beg mountains, with not a house or home in sight, it’s also the very loneliest place – but in a wonderful, positive and serene sense.

Walking in Mayo Ireland

Irish Time article, part 1

 

Walking holidays in Ireland

Irish Times article, part 2

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Walking Holiday in Cong, Co. Mayo

Cong Lakes Walking Weekend takes place each year on the May bank holiday weekend. This short video gives you a flavour of the type of places we will encounter over this long weekend walking holiday.

This is lakes, mixed woodland and river wetlands country.

 

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Walking Holidays in Ireland

There are many great reasons for taking walking holidays in Ireland. Of course, we have the beautiful landscapes, particularly here in the west. We have the nice and relaxed pace of life along our west coast. We have the great craic in our rural pubs. But, of course, most of all we have the people. You’ve heard the phrase, “strangers are but friends waiting to be met”.

Walking holidays in Ireland

Discovering Ireland's Lakes

Walking holidays in the west of Ireland are about discovering our huge Atlantic blanket bogs, our exciting cliff-top trails and our offshore islands. They are about our mountains, although low at only up to 1,000 m, majestic and with spectacular views over the coastline all around. They are about our inland lakes and our tiny little villages, full of charm. They are about our pubs and the melodic sound of Irish traditional music that fills the best of them. They are about our lovely hosts in their special B&Bs and the effort they make to make all my guests feel special.

But walking holidays in Ireland are also about learning of our rural culture, our history and our tremendous Irish legends. They are about stories of battles, chieftains, churches and castles, about the land, The Great Famine and the struggle for independence. For many from the UK and USA, they are about learning of how their forefathers lived. For our continental visitors, they are about hearing and learning more of this fabled land that is Ireland. But most of all, it’s about the expereience of getting to spend time in our lovely land and meeting our people.

You’d be welcome.

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